Restoring the original Gameboy got me really interested in restoring and repairing more of these old gaming consoles like this Nintendo NES along side with the knives, tools, etc. I might move into other old electronics as well. I haven’t really done much this type of work ever but with every project I learn and get better.
For the disassembly I used a Phillips screwdriver, except for the screws on the top half of the shell. Those had a weird type of screw that could still be opened with a flathead. There was a pit in the middle of the slot, so the screwdriver would be a flathead with a “spike” in the middle. I have not seen those before. No real trick here. Try to remember which screw came where, or film it like me. And don’t loose the screws!
Removing the controllers’ and buttons’ cords from the board was much harder than it looks. I probably spent 2 minutes just wiggling them from side to side until they came loose.
For cleaning up the boards I used a small airbrush compressor which I have. This blew off all the loose dirt and dust. After this I used Isopropylic alcohol to clean up the rest and remove some corrosion. I works really well and doesn’t corrode the parts. After cleaning everything I tested that the console works before putting it back together.
The shell was quite yellowed and had some stains, maybe from stickers. It was also very dirty and more dirt was found from inside. No wonder it had some issues. I sed the same method for “retrobrighting” the shell than I used with the SNES. I only did a little upgrade to the “solarium”. I added a baking sheet that will disperse the light so that the lighting will be more even. I think the optimal method would be to have a clear box inside the solarium and the parts submerged in hydrogen peroxide. With this method I don’t need as much hydrogen peroxide but I need to be watching that the hydrogen peroxide wont dry too much or something because that may cause patchy results.
Basically what was done is that I mixed 12% hydrogenperoxide with gelatin to make it less runny (this doesn’t work extremely well. I’ll do something better after I’ve used this batch up). After this I wrapped the whole thin in cling film to prevent the liquid from evaporating. The items were then put into a box with UV-led strips. I’ve tested that the temperature in the box (read MY box) won’t go much above 50 degrees Celsius with I feel, won’t cause a fire hazard, or melt the plastic.
After this I just cleaned the parts from the liquid and let them dry before assembly. Fun fact: I spent a long time making the timelapse. There is probably +100 cuts in the clip, it’s not just speeded up video 😉
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SOME TOOLS FROM THIS PROJECT:
SCREW DRIVER SET: https://amzn.to/2F3n6kO
HYDROGEN PEROXIDE: https://amzn.to/2K5OmTS
UV LED STRIP: https://amzn.to/2IqLmOA
SOME OF MY OTHER TOOLS:
SANDING PADS: https://amzn.to/2ICDr2i
SCORLL SAW: https://amzn.to/31Eblej
POWER FILE: https://amzn.to/2URHvPq
CHUCK NORRIS’ TOOTHBRUSH: https://amzn.to/2YfXUj2
CORDLESS DRILL: https://amzn.to/2Wois77
BETTER ROTARY TOOL: https://amzn.to/2WF75I6
PRESS FOR ROTARY TOOL: https://amzn.to/2Uiv1Eu
2-AXIS TABLE FOR THE PRESS https://amzn.to/2WPkttl
MY FILMING GEAR:
MAIN CAMERA: https://amzn.to/2JvtKox
MAIN TRIPOD: https://amzn.to/2OlpYgn
VIDEO LIGHTS: https://amzn.to/2FpJDaB
MAIN LENS: https://amzn.to/2Fm8yMk
CINEMATIC LENS: https://amzn.to/2TmNdHH
WIDE ANGLE LENS: https://amzn.to/2U7iJha
THE WATCH: https://amzn.to/2NpDMJJ
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Restoration playlist▶ https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLVIxIjRNxFv5VRUXt66VzBxOys1GpmBp4